Guide Credentials

Credentials for the profession of mountain guiding are designed to serve clients at the Best Practice standards, achieved through a rigorous training and certification process: enhanced quality of experience; performance at the highest standards of risk management; work within the Scope of Practice and according to the Code of Conduct ethics. Only IFMGA certified guides meet these standards.

Who is your guide? This is the most important question you as a client need answered before engaging with an outfit or individual. As a client, realize that you are spending a significant amount of time and money on an outing with a guide. Therefore it only makes sense to ensure you’re getting the best possible service. Once you found the guide(s) you trust and get along well with, consider sticking with them rather than searching for a new guide every time you’re going on a mountain trip.

Ski & mountain guiding is a highly technical and potentially dangerous activity. There are many specific skills involved that are not normally part of the recreational skier/climber’s repertoire. In order to perfect these skills, guides attend various trainings and pass a rigorous examination process. While there are quite a few organizations, especially in the US, that claim to train guides in these skills, the most reliable ones are those that have adopted the guidelines of the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA), which describes the highest standards of the guiding industry. Member organizations have met the strict requirements for guide training and examination established by the IFMGA, and have proven their quality through an extensive review process conducted by the IFMGA.

International Association of Mountain Guides Associations

The IFMGA, founded in 1965 by guides from Austria, France, Switzerland and Italy, is an international association of national mountain guide associations from all over the world. Each member association represents the mountain guides of their respective countries, who are qualified according to the IFMGA guidelines. The IFMGA currently consists of associations from more than 20 countries, representing a total of almost 6000 guides. Amongst other tasks, the IFMGA determines mandatory training standards, generally recognized as the industry’s highest world wide. Many countries legally require guides to be certified at this standard.

American Mountain Guides Association

The AMGA became an IFMGA member in 1997. Certification is achieved in three disciplines - rock, alpine/ice, ski, but only top level certification in all three disciplines is equivalent of the IFMGA standard. As of 2018, there are fewer than 150 IFMGA certified guides in the USA. To date, there is still no legal requirement for anyone working as a guide to be certified and access to commercial guiding permits is still not based on guide credentials. AMGA accreditation differs greatly from certification: An AMGA accredited company has passed a brief review of climbing activities, hiring policies, permits and insurance. Accreditation is not an in-depth evaluation of the company's guides or their skills.

Swiss Mountain Guides Association

Switzerland has a long mountain guiding tradition that goes back to the 2nd half of the 19th century. In 1965, it became a founding member of the IFMGA. Today, there are about 1400 part/full-time guides. It is illegal to work as a guide without being IFMGA certified: Under the “Federal Act on Mountain Guides and Organizers of other High-Risk Activities”, a person working as a ski & mountain guide must be IFMGA certified, listed in the national registry and attend bi-yearly continuing professional development. A such, a guide is permitted to work freely with very little limitations. These requirements are also in place for canyoning, hiking/via ferrata, ski and snowboard instruction. Most European IFMGA countries (eg. Germany, Austria, Italy, France) are organized in similar terms.

Client - Guide ratios: Guides find themselves in need to balance financial considerations with safety and quality of experience. Parties guided at a low ratio typically are stronger, more effective, safer and therefore more successful. For these reasons, many regions have adopted best-practice guidelines on certain routes to prevent guides from making profit driven decisions. But don’t confuse group size with client-guide ratio. Responsible guiding with larger groups involves more than 1 guide to keep the ratio low. My advice is to go with a lower ratio despite the higher cost, as the increased safety margins, greater flexibility and personal attention, more predictable group dynamic all are well worth it.

Experience on the route: Local experience certainly is a valuable asset for a guide. However, more important are the quality, competence and conscientiousness of your guide. A good guide has the skill, experience, network and diligence to deliver an excellent job even in areas where he/she hasn’t been before. Some clients prefer to go to locations where their guide has never been to, as observing the guide’s thinking and decision making processes in action can be very educational. Most good guides enjoy working new routes or areas as such challenges keep their focus and skills sharp, prevent job monotony and provide an extra dose of satisfaction for a job well done. Being with a guide you know and trust not only increases safety and efficiency, but spending time with a friend simply is more fun.

My approach and philosophy to guiding:

I achieved IFMGA certification because I strongly believe in the value of guide training and examination at the highest level and I have dedicated myself to uphold such lofty standards also in several other aspects associated with this profession. Being responsible for clients’ enjoyment, well-being and safety, guides owe their clients nothing less but the highest level of professionalism - and professionalism means certification, a standard to which clients can and should measure their expectations. As an independent guide, I value the freedom and flexibility to create unique experiences with you, my clients, in mind. It also keeps me excited about guiding as a lifelong career. Emphasizing custom designed trips and instructional courses rather than pre-scheduled outings was a decision I made from the very beginning as it allows me to address the specific goals of my clients so much better. By keeping small guide-client ratios, I put safety, enjoyment and success above monetary profits, because after all that is why clients hire guides and how guides (should) remain motivated. That said, I need to charge a fair price for my services which allows me to continue to afford working as your ski and mountain guide for many more years to come. For me, guiding is more than work, it is a lifestyle of passion for the mountains and dedication to the people I adventure with. After so many years in business, much of my work is with returning clients with whom the numerous mountain adventures have evolved into fine friendships. The many returning clients and word-of-mouth serves as testimony to the sincerity and quality of my guiding.

My professional credentials as they relate to guiding: